Leaving Lhasa for Shigatse – The Road to Everest Begins
We left Lhasa today and headed towards Shigatse, a common overnight rest stop for most tours enroute to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Shigatse serves as an important break in the journey, not just to split up the long drive, but also to allow our bodies to acclimatise gradually. Sitting at around 3,840 metres, it’s a good intermediate altitude before pushing on to Dingri and eventually EBC, where elevations climb beyond 5,000 metres.
This post is part of our 13-day Tibet journey, documenting each day of our journey across Nyingchi, Lhasa, Everest Base Camp, and the Qinghai–Tibet Railway. Read the full itinerary here.
Crossing Mount Gangbala at 4,900 Metres
Which also means… another long day on the road. We set off after breakfast, gradually climbing higher as we traversed Mount Gangbala, a snowy mountain pass standing at 4,900 metres above sea level.
Yamdrok Tso Lake – One of Tibet’s Three Sacred Lakes
First stop – Yamdrok Tso Lake, one of the three sacred lakes of Tibet. Revered as a holy lake in Tibetan Buddhism, Yamdrok Tso is believed to be life-sustaining for the region. From the viewpoint above, the lake revealed itself in layers of turquoise, teal, and deep blue, winding through the mountains like a living painting. Hubby said this lake was even more beautiful than Namtso. Personally, I think they’re both stunning in their own ways.
Descending to Yamdrok Tso’s Turquoise Shores
From the viewpoint, we descended down to the shores of the lake, braving the cold wind but completely mesmerised. Snow-capped peaks, open skies, and crystal-clear water came together to create a moment that felt incredibly calm and serene.
Tibetan Mastiffs & Yaks
Karola Glacier – Standing at Over 5,020 Metres
After lunch, we continued towards our next stop: Kanola Glacier, one of the most accessible glaciers in Tibet.
Fed by centuries of snowfall, the glacier cascades down the mountains in thick, frozen waves. Standing there at over 5,020 metres above sea level, surrounded by jagged peaks and biting cold, it was impossible not to feel tiny. The glacier felt ancient and powerful — a stark reminder of how raw and untouched this land still is. There’s a boardwalk that leads closer for a better view (and fewer tourists). However, given the altitude, we were strongly advised not to attempt it.
Passing Gyantse Dzong & Pala Manor
As we drove into Shigatse, we passed by several historically significant landmarks such as Gyantse Dzong and Pala Manor. We didn’t stop due to time constraints, but our tour guide shared stories of their importance, adding context to the landscapes we were passing through.
Arrival in Shigatse – Tibet’s Second-Largest City
By late afternoon, we finally arrived in Shigatse, Tibet’s second-largest city and an important cultural and religious centre. Historically, it was the seat of the Panchen Lama, making it a key spiritual hub alongside Lhasa. Compared to the capital, Shigatse feels quieter and more laid-back – a slower pace of life that reflects everyday Tibetan living.
Tibetan Dinner & Cultural Performance in Shigatse
We headed straight to dinner, and tonight dinner was special – authentic Tibetan cuisine at a traditional Tibetan restaurant. I was really looking forward to it, though our guide kept trying to manage expectations, warning us that Tibetan food might not suit everyone. Well… never try, never know. The restaurant itself was lovely – very Tibetan, complete with a small museum.
Honestly, I quite enjoyed the food. I tried everything – from barley wine (青稞酒) and Tibetan porridge, also known as Tsampa, to Tibetan butter tea (酥油茶). I didn’t dare drink too much of the barley wine – getting tipsy before heading to EBC was the last thing on my mind – and I skipped the yogurt, knowing my stomach wouldn’t forgive me. Tsampa wasn’t really my thing; slightly sour and very similar to barley wine but in porridge form. That said, I drank a lot of butter tea. Hah
Hotplate Beef
Dinner ended with a traditional dance performance, which was a lovely surprise.
Overnight in Shigatse Before Everest Base Camp
By the time we left the restaurant, it was close to 9pm. Tonight’s stay was at Shigatse Qomo Langzong Urcove Hotel – a decent hotel with a spacious room and a great location. Shops, restaurants, and even a supermarket were all within walking distance. We took a short walk around, picked up a pair of ski gloves in preparation for EBC, and stocked up on cup noodles and snacks. Honestly, I love China supermarkets – they sell everything.
A quick shower and then straight to bed. tomorrow would be the toughest and most anticipated day yet, as we journey onward to Everest Base Camp.
Continue reading: Day 8: Shigatse – Everest Town – Everest Base Camp